Our climbing trip to Arkansas was also
just the BEST. We left Bethel on Saturday evening, stayed the night
at Eric's house in Independence, then drove the rest of the way
Sunday morning. That way, we didn't have to waste an entire day
driving, but also didn't have to drive all night and set up in the
dark and cold (been there, done that, it's miserable). Eric's older
brother Ryan came with us, as well as one of their McPherson friends,
Mikael, whom I had not met before the trip. We had a good time on
the way down listening to Broadway soundtracks in Eric's truck and
admiring the fantastically beautiful Arkansas scenery. Right before
we hit Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, we stopped off at Low Gap, which is
either the name of a restaurant or the name of a town, I'm not sure.
If it was a town, it consisted of the restaurant, as far as I could
tell. Their buffet line was DELICIOUS. They had catfish and frog's
legs, which I have never tried before. They are a little tougher and
chewier than chicken, but otherwise quite good. And their pumpkin
cheesecake was amazing. I had two slices. If you're ever in the
Jasper, Arkansas area, you have got to stop there. It will be the
best decision you make all day.
After arriving at the Ranch (which is
really like a high-falootin' dude ranch for clueless city folk, with
some of Arkansas's best climbing routes thrown in on the side), we
paid our dues for the next four days, rented shoes, and immediately
hit the walls of the canyon for some warm-up routes. There were a
lot of campers still hanging around, since it was Sunday afternoon,
so we thought it would be best to let them all trickle on home while
we climbed and then picked over their camping spots for the best
location. Once it started getting darker and chillier, we decided it
was time to pack up and head back to the campsites. As soon as we
got there, we noticed a group with THE BEST spot in the whole camp –
down on the side of the hill, sheltered by a bunch of trees, with a
great fire pit. So we snagged it as soon as they left, and started
setting up the tent. Eric discovered that of all the things he had
so responsibly packed, the one thing he'd forgotten was the pump for
the queen-sized air mattress. Some talk was made of using the truck
exhaust to blow it up, but thankfully, better sense prevailed and no
one died of carbon monoxide poisoning. As Eric used his tuba-playing
skills to manually inflate the air bed (sounding like a dead-ringer
for Darth Vadar), Mikael built a fire and we started on supper.
The next day, we got up with the sun,
had some packeted oatmeal, and headed out for our first big day of
climbing. We went to the North Forty routes, a long chain of
moderates that kept us occupied all day. I don't know how many we
did exactly, but it must have been eight or ten. I learned how to
lead climb and belay, leading a 5.8 route and top roping a 5.9+ with
a difficult crux right at the top. The higher the number after the
five, the more difficult the route. 5.6 is the easiest at the Ranch,
and is like walking up a ladder. 5.13 is the hardest and is best
left to people like Will Nagengast. The hardest part about the
routes at the Ranch, at least initially, is that I was used to
climbing bouldering routes at the gym, which are like 10-15 feet, not
the 50-60 feet outside. More like a marathon than a sprint!
On our second full day, we went to the
Cliffs of Insanity and the Far East to climb a 5.9+ route called
Orange Crush. Well, our book called it a 5.9+, but other people's
books had upgraded it to a 5.10a, so we called it a 10a because it
made us sound cooler. It was 80 feet, which is about twice as long
as all of the other routes we'd climbed in the last two days. It was
exhausting! Thankfully, the crux was in the middle, before we'd run
out of all of our energy! The view from the top was absolutely
amazing! We could see the entire canyon and at least a 270 degree
panorama from the corner of the route. Very, very beautiful.
After
spending an hour or two wearing ourselves out on Orange Crush, we
took a very long break and had some lunch, then got back to climbing
some easier routes. I led one with a layback finish, which I'd never
done before, and is kind of weird and awkward. My arms were really
tired by the time I got to the last couple of bolts and I wanted to
quit and just go back down, but Eric, who was belaying, wouldn't let
me! So in the end, I had to finish it if I wanted to get back to the
ground. It was annoying, but I'm glad he made me do it. We ended
the day at Magoo Rock with a couple of easy, fun routes that involved
a lot of swinging back and forth between two rock faces and a lot of
bicep comparisons.
Supper was canned chili cooked in tin cans over
the fire. Happily, we managed to scavenge a grate from another
campside, so we didn't have to reach directly into the fire to place
the cans, which was a nice change.
Our third day was only a half day,
since we had to drive back to Kansas in the afternoon. By the time
we finished packing up the campsite, we only had time for a few
routes before we had to leave, so while Eric and Ryan finished
folding up the tent, Mikael and I went to Titanic boulder to practice
leading.
A couple of groups were there already, and we had a good
time talking to them. The climbers that we encountered were always
SUPER friendly and willing to lend out advice or direction. It was
really cool to get to know them a little bit. Some of them came from
as far away as Minnesota! They said it was a 13 hour drive, which
made us very happy that we only had eight.
We ended our time at
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch with a 5.10b that only Eric could do. It had
about a 6' roof at the very end that involved planting one's feet on
the wall and stretching out horizontally to reach up and over the
ledge to secure the final bolt. By far the most difficult route any
of us had attempted all week.
On the way home, we blatantly defied
the government shutdown in order to drive through a gorgeous state
park. The ranger, who was tootling around in a golf cart just waved
at us. I don't think he cared that we were there. The weather was
incredibly nice, so we drove through the winding roads with the
windows down, blasting “The Lion King” and “Children of Eden”
and receiving some strange looks at intersections. After switching
vehicles at Eric's and wolfing down some leftover chili, Ryan and
Mikael and I drove the rest of the way to Newton, arriving back
around 8:45.
My last two days in Newton were spent
sleeping in, stopping by Bethel for chance encounters with friends,
eating at Mojo's, having tea and taking walks with Jacob and Martin,
having supper with Gary and Carla, having supper with Zach, watching
Glee with Ryan and Brian and Eric, getting cheese fries at Newell's
with Evan, Brian, and Eric, and listening to Eric complain about how
poor my computer's performance was as he tried to fix it.
This was truly the best vacation. Thank
you all for reading, and thank you all for making my trip to Kansas
truly memorable. I love you all.